House Rabbits

While rabbits are unquestionably the most excellent pets I've ever experienced, they are also the most demanding and challenging. If you're considering introducing a rabbit into your home, there are a handful of things you should know.

Most pet retailers, as well as pet supply retailers, have no clue what is actually healthful for a rabbit. They have a product they need to move. Questions about your rabbits health should be directed to your vet, the house rabbit society, or other reputable, knowledgable, unbiased source.

Most rabbits do not like to be picked up, nor do they like loud noises and sudden movements. Rabbits do not make good pets for children.

Fear can kill a rabbit, as can rough handling. They are quite fragile.

Your rabbit will need to have his nails trimmed regularly. Long nails can cause your bun injury when he itches and grooms himself.

Bunnies are inquisitive, playful, willful and intelligent. While many rabbits enjoy having a "home" to hole up in from time to time, they do NOT fare well when they spend their lives in a cage. A rabbit is *not* a rodent. Keeping a rabbit in a cage is the same as keeping a dog forever on a chain in the yard. A happy rabbit needs to interact, explore, run, binky and find a corner that he or she will designate a refuge.

If you do keep a "home' of sorts for the rabbit, never use wood shavings (ESPECIALLY cedar). Timothy hay (not straw) or oat hay make good bedding that even rabbits with active denning instincts will enjoy. They can eat it, play with it and dig in it. Hay is an especially good choice as many pet rabbits do not get the fiber they need; if you're lucky, they'll nibble away at the bedding.

Rabbits are obligate breathers. They breathe only through the nose, and excess weight can cause complications. Stick to low sugar/carb snacks, make sure they have a fresh supply of greens (1cup/day), don't use food to offset your bunny's boredom and allow for plenty of exercise. Pellets should be used only to supplement a mostly hay diet. When you buy food for your rabbit, choose a food that is straight pellets, without fruit, nuts and other 'goodies'. These things are included for us, as owners, as they appeal to our subconscious desire to provide excellence and variety. Unfortunately, these extras are high carb and low fiber. Just what your rabbit *doesn't* need. They should get 1/2 a cup of pellets a day (per 6lbs of weight), greens and hay. And hay. Did I mention hay? Hay keeps the stomach constantly full and moving, supplies of energy all day, grinding hay maintains rabbit teeth and intestinal balance, prevents many digestive problems such as gas, bloating and soft stools, and helps to prevent obesity.

Rabbits use a litter tray naturally. If you already have a rabbit, you may find that the established rabbit will teach the litter rituals to the newcomer. Litter should be plain clay, wheat straw, hay, corn cob or some other natural product. No clumping, odour control, scented crystals or anything of the sort. Rabbits produce two kinds of droppings. Fecal pellets and cecotropes. Cecotropes are 'half done', so to speak, and they eat these. If they are contaminated by chemical scents or clumping litter you could find yourself with a deceased or very ill friend.

They can get into just about anything. You will need to rabbit-proof your house with the same diligence that you would child-proof a house. Make sure all houseplants are out of reach, cords and cables are protected, corners of carpets are guarded (imagine the result of carpet tacks on your rabbit's feet and mouth if he or she is in a digging sort of mood), chemicals are out of reach, etc.

Spaying/neutering is a must. The stress of being in season is very hard on a rabbit. Fixing your rabbit will most likely increase his/her lifespan. It is also desirable from a behavioural perspective, as many destructive activities are hormonally motivated. Carpet digging/chewing is possibly one of the more expensive examples. It's important to note that your rabbit may still be fertile a couple weeks after surgery, as well as very fragile. If you have more than one rabbit, you may wish to keep him/her secluded until they have time to heal and for hormones to subside. As a note: small animal vets can be hard to come by. You may wish to make sure you will have access to a vet that can handle a rabbit, and do it well before commiting to a bunny.